In Search of Key Biscayne’s Best Burger

In this photo composition, a hamburger from Tutto Pasta in Key Biscayne is seen alongside Chef Juoa Oliveira, June, 2019 (Key News/Linda Criss)

Hamburgers seem to stir up one’s appetite. They are an American staple. Who doesn’t crave one, love one at least once a day, OK, once a week. I tend to salivate just sneaking a look at one. Do you want it grilled, pan fried, smacked on a flat top? Does an 8 ounce patty suit your style? Perhaps a double with provolone tucked between and above. Rare, medium rare, medium, even well done?

So I set out to sample the best Key Biscayne had to offer.

First, I had to consider the options: lettuce, tomato, bacon, egg, pork belly, classic melted cheese, sweet fried plantains, A-1 sauce, chutney, caramelized onions, sliced pork, peppers fried or hot, mushrooms sautéed, house made tangy cole slaw, shoe string fries — the whole kitchen sink.

Add ketchup or mayo, sriracha, yellow or Dijon mustard, BBQ sauce, relish and those pickles.

Do you want bread and butter, garlic, dill or spicy? What about the bread choice?

History lesson first. No sighing please. Supposedly the first hamburger was invented in 1895 by a Danish immigrant who placed the ground meat patty between two slices of white bread. It is considered to be, according to The Library Of Congress, the first hamburger ever made and sold by Louis’ Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut. Others credit the origin to the White Castle (I remember that) founder who named it the Hamburger Sandwich. Clever man!

A Hamburg is also a burger, filled with either beef (chuck, sirloin, brisket, short rib, bison, angus, waygu), turkey, chicken, pork, etc. So I ask what is your favorite? Think hot summer day, a red poppy flower lemonade pitcher dripping condensation, macaroni salad at the ready, those deep mahogany colored sweet baked beans waiting for a last stir. And the star of the show — is it a double layer charred beef oozing with cheddar? Can it be between two crunchy sweet donuts?

I’ve tasted this week over a half dozen burgers here on the Key. Each is distinctive, each has its own flair and style. All have good flavor, a wonderful delicious mouthful. However, we all have different palates, exposure and taste levels. What I prefer may not be your cup of tea. Perhaps it’s even unfair to judge. With this hopefully understood I do have a favorite.

Tutto Pasta — a total surprise!! Yes, it was definitely a coup de grace. Let the fireworks begin, it was unequivocally delicious, the very best classic burger. The meat was waygu, charred on the edges with a delicate but pronounced taste within the soft traditional bun. Bacon had a great crunch, tasted like bacon, not a smoky substitute that overwhelmed the patty, the tomato was ripe and sweet, the Taleggio cheese was creamy with a fruity overtone, lettuce and red onion completed its triumph. I ate it all – my chin dripping juice down onto my lap.

Hats off to the chef, Juoa Oliveira, you are a master.

Happy July 4th!